"You can observe a lot by watching." -Yogi Berra

Tag: Timeshare

The Real China: A Timeshare Adventure (Pt. 2/2)

Continued from Part 1

The trap was sprung. Aunt Fong and I were stranded at a makeshift timeshare sales office in the back corner of an isolated construction lot, in an out-of-the-way part of a city I didn’t even know the name of.

Once inside, we briefly wandered through the sales office, looking over the enlarged map on the wall and the model display of the future, finished apartment complex. China, currently undergoing a construction boom, has sales offices throughout its cities with large display models like those. They always inspired me with childish daydreams of filling the streets with army men and tanks, playing out big battles or defending civilians against a rogue, mutated lizard. Out back of the sales office was a lawn area with two rectangular fountain pools, some shade trees, and three different demo buildings to show all the tourist/prospects what their timeshare purchase would be like. (I refer to the apartments as timeshare units, but I do not know for sure that the Chinese used the infamous timeshare system prevalent in American vacation spots. However it was, they were trying to stick us poor saps with vacation property.)

I wonder if this grandmother daydreamed like me about marauding through this model of the Forbidden City (at a theme park in Southern China).

I wonder if this grandmother daydreamed like me about marauding through this model of the Forbidden City (at a theme park in Southern China).

Our walkthrough lasted 30 minutes at most, and most of those minutes were spent flattening up against a wall or shuffling through a crowded hallway to get a look at a bed or shower stall with all the other trapped souls loitering their time away. Reluctantly, my aunt led me back into the sales office to find a seat. I have no idea what Aunt Fong told our inescapable sales rep as he pulled his white plastic chair up next to ours, but the mood was one of tension and futility. I could not feel sorry for him; anyone caught in the sales game (as I shamefully once was) ought to relieve themselves of the dirty business.

It must have been plain, even to the men on that sales mission who were primarily focused on scoring money, that Aunt Fong and I were an unfortunate woman and her foreign “son” who had been duped into this scam, and no amount of salesmanship would have turned us into buyers. Salesmen, unscrupulous curs by nature, have no shame and they believe that every objection can be overcome, so they will hound a prospect until he gives up his money or, in a fit of anger or frankness, spits out the real objection (or curse words) and walks away. For Aunt Fong and me, there was no exit, but the young sales rep could see there was no use harrying us- doting middle-aged women and their foreign honorary sons do not buy vacation property.

It did not matter that our assigned sales rep was content to coast through this misery with us by offering refills for our water cups and bothering us only occasionally; his teammates rotated with him in a system that ensured the tourists were always talking to someone and had new, fresh personalities constantly entering and working them over. In China, I had seen how the morning shift employees would line up outside the store’s front doors and either be berated by the boss or receive a pep talk and have a group cheer (even the security guards at my university’s gates would do this before they went to loafing in the guard booth for the day), so I could only imagine how awful the strategy meetings were for these college-aged kids who were selling timeshares to unsuspecting tourists in this weekend getaway racket. Every time a new sales rep or manager came over to us, I knew it was because they had a sales manager or president breathing down the back of their neck, and if they didn’t perform, he would call them out in front of everyone at the sales meeting.

I considered that all these sales reps were just kids trying to pay for college, or without the grades to get into a good college program, and now the cult-like company environment had them believing they had to pressure innocents in order to make money. (Money! That most sacred of words to a salesman’s ears, surely containing more pleasures than paradise.) But I knew better than to pity the youths; sales companies quickly filter out those with any qualms about the ethics of scamming, cheating, charming, and cozening (hence the high turnover of the fainthearted), so anyone still working for this timeshare company was either nearly out the door or, just as likely, a performer who had refined his craft to make regular sales and, more importantly, someone covetous of filthy lucre. Feeling sorry for the hopeless squad of salesman would be like feeling sorry for a hungry snake coming upon a bird’s nest only to find it empty. Let it starve. The world does not need more timeshares.

I was so innocent before at the beach, not knowing what sales agony lie in store.

I was so innocent before at the beach, not knowing what sales agony lie in store.

During the first hour, I slowly lost hope. My stomach felt worse than terrible, the constant presence of the sales rep made everything awkward and without a moment’s privacy, and the mass of people crowded throughout the confines, combined with the dance music, drumming, and shrill announcements over the PA system, made it impossible to focus on a single, clear thought. When the man behind the main counter began whacking away at the drum for the third time, and the thin girl once again rose into a fever pitch of exclamation, Aunt Fong asked me if I knew what she was hollering into the microphone about. Yes, I nodded, they had gotten some wearied soul to sign on the dotted line. Those “lucky” buyers then became the envy of everyone else when they were allowed to take their families into a small, private room shut off from the main sales office.

I reasoned after the fourth or fifth announcement, when an hour had gone by and things seemed to relatively slow down (there were no new busloads of people and no new sales celebrations), that surely, everyone had been subjected to the sales pitch and had time enough to make a final decision. Our business was done here; let us go. I was neglecting to factor in the callous, unrelenting hearts of the managers behind this sales tactic. They were going to hold us there as long as they wanted and squeeze us until more signed contracts came out. Like juicing a lemon, the effort and time put into the final drops- just to make sure all the juice that could be gotten out was gotten out- was far more than the first effort of squeezing the fresh fruit.

During the second hour, after I had made a trip to the bathroom, seeking some stomach relief in vain, and come back to sit next to Aunt Fong, she told me to close my eyes and rest. She would do this all the time in China’s various and sundry crowded, chaotic scenes. I protested about the futility of trying to ignore bedlam this way, but she would always insist I follow her relaxation technique. So, absurdly, as the dance music thumped on and people walked and talked around us, I followed her lead and lay back in my chair to try and relax.

Our assigned sales rep at least had the sense not to try selling us at that point, but that didn’t stop his sales buddy from tagging in and loudly speaking at us. He was barking away like a man possessed towards two people who would not even open their eyes to look at him. He tried selling us by starting a conversation with me, a foreigner who could not understand a word he said. I finally opened my eyes and stared at him, mystified that he was going on at length when I clearly comprehended none of it, and I tried telling him a couple times, in Chinese, that I didn’t understand. “Ting bu dong. Ting bu dong.” It was no matter. He chattered on until Aunt Fong bitterly scolded him and told him to get lost. He retreated, but still we could get no peace. Inevitably, other salesmen came in to take his place. They were on a tag team system, sent out by an overbearing sales manager, and would not leave prospects alone. The large stereo speakers, not twenty feet away, continued pounding out a dance beat.

So, Aunt Fong and I retreated to the back lawn and pulled some chairs underneath a shade tree. As the din of the sales routine reverberated and repeated around us- tourists never really changing places as new faces came in to badger them- I began contemplating if I could sneak off into one of the demo apartments and stretch out on the bed for a nap. My pain showed no signs of subsiding and I was growing weaker by the minute. After another half hour, Aunt Fong went out to the bus and convinced someone to open it so she could get her bag. Then, at least we had some bread and snacks to give us energy and occupy our time. Plus, I had my notebook, so I did my best to focus on writing over hours three and four.

Writing in relative luxury- I had one of the only chairs on the lawn with a back and arm rests, most everyone else sat on stools for hours.

Writing in relative luxury- I had one of the only chairs on the lawn with a back and arm rests, most everyone else sat on stools for hours.

Yes, hours three and four. I spent them wilting in the oppression of the summer heat and sales bleed. When my eyes drifted from my notebook, I entertained myself watching two little boys, one wearing only sandals and the other nearly naked, as they ran around the lawn and splashed in the fountains. They skipped about, having the time of their lives, blissfully unaware of everyone else’s misery. Their hilarity, I thought, was a picture of the incurable optimist who believes attitude creates every situation, rather than believe that being stranded at a sales company office creates the situation. Those bare-bottomed little boys may well have found the only way to be happy during that sales pitch. Like most optimists, they ought to have been embarrassed by their naked idiocy, but they were only thinking of the glee they had running without clothes. I smiled, not at their pluck, but because I was the only one who seemed to notice two naked boys running around. Back at the university, a student once summed up Chinese opinion on public child nudity by remarking, “What? It’s natural.”

Someone needs to sell that baby a sense of shame.

Someone needs to sell that baby a sense of shame.

Then, in my plastic lawn chair, my head drooping in defeat, I noticed a bright green praying mantis balancing on the blades of grass. I tried to pick him up, but he always hopped out of range of my fingers, so I switched to taking pictures of him as he crawled around. Eventually, he walked over to a tree trunk and started climbing. I was captivated and watched him until he was so high that he disappeared in the sunlight. Then I was left with only my notebook for entertainment and at least another hour waiting in that chair.

Mantis vs. tree.

Mantis vs. Tree

Finally, well beyond four hours after we were stranded in that cursed sales office, people started standing up, the sales reps quickly stacked the chairs, and we were back on the bus. Our captivity stretched well into dinnertime, so they had to relent. I was expecting a mutiny at any point during that unendurable afternoon. I imagined that there would surely be impatient individuals who would cause a major fuss if this were an American group. I couldn’t fathom how a Chinese crowd, known for their lack of manners, had failed to cause an uproar.

The bus driver took us right back to the restaurant we had eaten lunch at, which both dampened any enthusiasm I might have had for dinner and clued me in that the sales company and restaurant owner had a business arrangement with each other. The sight of food didn’t move my appetite and my stomach gripes had grown more turbulent, so I didn’t try eating any food. Not even when the man sitting next to me, another tourist (with a bald head, side tufts of hair, and glasses that made him look like an ostrich), dug a fish head out of the soup and plopped it into my bowl as a show of friendly hospitality to a foreigner. I listlessly stared at it, and he blurted out some choppy sentences in Chinese through a foamy mouth full of food. Aunt Fong insisted he was being very friendly. I spent the rest of the dinner declining food offers and waiting for the evening to end.

After eating, they took us straight back to the hotel. We had spent so long at the sales office that there was no time for any after-dinner activities, which was fine by me. I took some medicine from Aunt Fong and went straight to bed.

On Sunday morning, the sales reps came around again, banging on our door and hauling our luggage out to the bus. They drove us out to another dopey Buddha statue on the beach, so I walked along the shoreline and looked out at the sea for twenty minutes. Then, it was back on the bus, where I hung my head and wished that we would turn onto the highway and just start the long trip back to Bengbu. But I was awoken out of my gloom by a bump! bump! and the awful, terribly familiar shaking of the bus. Oh, please, they can’t be serious. This isn’t happening.

We were headed back to the sales office.

This baby was probably the only one excited to go back. I think even the sales reps and managers hated themselves for putting us through that grind.

This baby was probably the only one excited to go back. I think even the sales reps and managers hated themselves for putting us through that grind.

In the words of Karl Childers from Sling Blade, “I seen red.” I didn’t have the strength or the language faculties to say anything, but why weren’t the other passengers on the bus protesting? Americans, I had a feeling, would rise up and demand that bus be turned around. I reflected on tense situations I had witnessed in the past, growing up in the States, and usually there were one or two fiery individuals who would raise a ruckus and give voice to the complaints of the silent majority. In those instances, I could hold my tongue and quietly observe the battle unfold. Perhaps, I surmised, now I was in the middle of China’s group-minded culture, where no one wanted to be the one to speak up, draw attention to themselves, and risk losing face. Or perhaps everyone’s psyche was crushed from the day before and we all believed we had no option but to helplessly sit through the sales pitch again. Every sales pitch has its psychology plotted out, so the timeshare company probably expected, reasonably, that a second dose of the sales office would leave all the tourists so exhausted that they had no sales resistance.

I began reasoning with myself again. Maybe they only needed to check over some documents from yesterday. One of the sales reps will run in while we wait here on the bus.

We came to a stop and the sales reps immediately stood up; everyone else followed. No! No! Come on, people! Let’s kick out the windows or do whatever we have to- we are not going back into that office! Do not go gentle!

I was in a feverish sweat. Sitting in the back row, watching the backs of the others as they filed out, I resolved not to leave my seat. I was terribly sick, I had no energy, this sales treatment was an outrage, and all I wanted was to lie down and rest. By the time everyone except Aunt Fong, me, and a couple sales reps had left the bus, I recognized that my protest was futile. I would be shut inside a hot bus with hardly any ventilation. Aunt Fong, recognizing my current infirmity, looked at me sorrowfully and helped me to my feet. “Don’t angry. Don’t angry,” she said.

Off the bus, I grimaced in pain and searched for the nearest place I could lie down and escape the sun. Aunt Fong and I didn’t even start down the walkway into the sales office, lined with yesterday’s haggard, colorful streamers that were pathetically flitting in the wind. I hobbled across the dirt roadway and sat down under a tree where the bullfrog-shaped bus driver and his wife had already claimed the only decent seating. Sitting on a wooden post, supporting myself with my hands on my knees and barely having the strength to stay erect, I watched a scene on the dirt roadway.

Outside the bus, Aunt Fong was quarreling with some of the sales managers. She was furiously shrieking at them, and one, maybe the head manager, was posturing and shouting right back at her in between drags of his cigarette. Aunt Fong was inconsolable; I was enraged. My downcast face and posture didn’t show it, but I was filled with wrath beyond the point that polite people care to admit they are capable of. I wanted to commit violence. I imagined myself marching into the sales office and overturning the tables and driving all the sales reps out, kicking over the speakers, and tossing that big drum into the model table. I wanted to yell at someone or run off and take the bus out of that miserable resort.

I was incapacitated by illness, so I wasn’t capable of any of those actions, but as I watched Aunt Fong and the sales manager continue to fight with raised voices, I swore to myself that if that manager went from aggressive, dismissive gesturing with outstretched arms to placing his hands on Aunt Fong or so much as poking her in the chest with his finger, I was going to be up and off my seat. It would have required everything I had and my body would be completely spent, but I was ready and willing to pay the price. I was going to lay hands on this Chinese ruffian and take him down to Brazilian jiu-jitsu town. I didn’t care if he had learned Tai Chi in the park from Kung-Fucious himself, I had spent enough time grappling to take him down, sit on his chest, and make him sorry he ever considered selling us timeshare. I would probably double over in pain afterwards and vomit what little was left in my stomach, but I believed I could will myself to efficiently tackle that scoundrel and serve him his comeuppance.

I watched intently for a moment of contact between him and Aunt Fong, but it didn’t happen. After telling them off, she broke away from the small huddle and hurried over to me, still slumped on the wooden post in a sullen pose. She took my hand in hers, knelt down in the dirt so she could look up into my downcast eyes, and with tears streaming out of hers, she pleaded with me, saying, “Sorry. Sorry. I’m sorry.” I reached my hand out and tried to comfort her with my languid arm. Tears were running down my face, too.

“No, no, mei gwanshee. Mei-yo wuntee.” Never mind. No problem, I told her.

After a moment together, we went back under the shade trees out behind the sales office to find a better seat. This time, I did not even have the energy to eat or entertain myself. I read and struggled to sleep, tormented by the discomfort of the cheap lawn chair and the unceasing noise around me. It was Sunday, and trapped as I was I still tried to have a rest and read through passages of my Bible. I know, that must seem like a great contrast between my feelings of wrathful violence a few moments earlier. I suppose my spirit has passes from Psalm 83 to 84. A great thirst for God’s vengeance, to a desire for peace in His presence.

Trying, and failing, to sleep on a long, sick Sunday afternoon.

Trying, and failing, to sleep on a long, sick Sunday afternoon.

About three hours later, we were allowed back on the bus.

Lunch was at the same restaurant as before. This time, I didn’t even pick up my chopsticks. The smell and sight of food, and the stuffy, enclosed space of the dining room had me feeling even worse than before, so I spent the duration of the meal seeking fresh air out on the street curb, next to the smokers. They asked me where I was from and if I played basketball. They laughed at themselves for teasing a six-foot tall American with such a novel question.

In time, we were back on the bus and on the highway. I spent the trip alternating my posture as I reclined on the back row of seats, failing to ever fall into a deep sleep. So, I passed the time straining my eyes to try and read the subtitles of the movie on the overhead televisions. Stopping mid-way at a rest area, I sought a moment of solitude by walking around the back of the bathrooms and shops. My assigned sales rep was at my heels in a moment; he couldn’t let me be, even then. As I solemnly circled the parking lot and ambled back onto the bus, I refused to respond to his pleasantries or the looks of anyone else involved with the company. They disgusted me and I never wanted to see any of them ever again.

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After an exhausting, seemingly interminable ride, we were back from whence we came, in Aunt Fong’s city, at a time when people were in bed and the streetlights were the only thing filling the lonely streets. The bus pulled up to the corner where this whole regretful experience began. People poured out of that bus as fast as they could, desperately hailing down taxis, no one saying the least word to each other or even making eye contact to acknowledge another and tacitly bid them good bye. I thrust through the sparse line of people on the sidewalk and pulled my luggage out from the cargo space below the bus, not content to allow our sales rep to show me the courtesy, stepping past him to grab hold of it myself.

Aunt Fong and I looked left and right for a cab. As she walked down the sidewalk, I paused, noticing the attractive sales rep standing by herself on that forlorn street corner. I had felt this dilemma approaching in my stomach as we neared the end of our trip. I could have easily walked up to this young woman, one of the most attractive I had seen in China, and asked her for her phone number. Two nights ago she had outright told me she was interested in me. But she was part of this ugly, devious sales company, earning her wages by beguiling the unsuspecting. I hated that company and I wanted to be rid of even the memory of it.

I wasn’t going to be like Lot’s wife. In that instant I turned away from her and looked over my other shoulder to see that Aunt Fong had found a free cab. I strode forward without ever looking back. She and I were back at her apartment in a moment; then I was in my bed on the floor of the guest bedroom. I wanted to put this awful weekend behind me. Compared to it, all the other bad weekends in China were only runners-up.

I say bad “weekends” and not “times” because, while I managed to make it through the weekend without collapsing and being taken to the hospital, I could not maintain throughout the week. My three-day hospital stay would begin starting Monday night.

The Real China: A Timeshare Adventure (Pt. 1/2)

Finishing my last grading in China.

Grading my final tests in China.

It was July. I had just finished grading my semester tests; my time in China was coming to an end. This meant that my time with Aunt Fong was coming to an end.

My university had been good enough to give me until the end of the month on my work visa, so I had four weeks of time to do what I willed in their country. Being a Chinese socialist state, “doing as I willed” did not include viewing YouTube, blogs, Facebook, or other social media online, but likewise being a dilapidated society in the midst of industrial revolution, I probably could have demo-rigged an old concrete farmhouse with fireworks and been let off with a stern talking to. Realistically, in China I was free to set off fireworks at will, start fires on the sidewalk, and use the street as a human waste receptacle with intersections.

By the end of my journey, I was so sapped of energy and enthusiasm that I barely had the spirit to go on. Had I not had the strong desire in my heart to stay with my Chinese aunt, I would have gladly booked a flight the week after classes ended and bid China a hasty “88” (that’s a texting abbreviation for “bye, bye”; eight, in Mandarin Chinese, is pronounced “ba”). I had spent part of every week with stomach cramps or diarrhea, I had come to my wits’ end with classes who would not speak freely no matter how easy the atmosphere or how soft I made myself (if a rare student did have the audacity to ask a question to the foreign teacher, they struggled to say something worthwhile), and, as if I have not made it plain already, I was completely disgusted with the Chinese lifestyle and living within Chinese society in a Chinese city.

Before you think to lecture me on having the open-mindedness to accept a different culture, or chastise me for my bitter attitude, I think it should be noted that my treatment of China, her people and culture, has been nicer than necessary. Too generous, even. China is a country where, if you fell down dead (or unconscious) on the subway, the other passengers would leave your body to lie there as they scrambled out of the car like it was on fire, justifying it later with pathetic excuses about liability risk and fear of disease. If your small child wandered away from you and got run over by a van, don’t expect the people nearby to notice her or do anything about it. Don’t even expect those neighbors of yours to recognize you or your child when the police and newspapers come questioning. That’s community life for many in this collectivist society.

Sure, those two events might be notorious and not normative, but they result from a norm of cold indifference to strangers- with “strangers” being a much broader category in Chinese thought versus Western assumptions. I saw appalling things all the time there, even if they weren’t great enough to attract the same media attention. As I observed in the real China, periled strangers are someone else’s problem (as are safety standards, cleanliness, basic resources, etc.). Even family are viewed in terms of cruel economic survival. Getting wealthy for one’s own is the spirit of the times; living life for softer reasons would seem extravagantly foolish.

And let me advise the reader that, before I ever came to China, I spent five weeks in out-of-the-way, Thailand, sleeping under a mosquito net, using a bucket and a barrel for showering and washing my waste down a hole in the bathroom, and being chased by feral dog packs when I ran past the neighboring farm houses- and I loved it. Poor conditions don’t scare me. What bothers me are filthy, crowded cities run by a society shaped by communist groupthink, irrationality, and intense pride in inane, centuries-old cultural tidbits.

My bathroom in Thailand. I didn't love THIS part; I learned to live with it though.

My bathroom in Thailand. I didn’t love THIS part; I learned to live with it though.

At least, in the midst of the squalor, I could find comic relief in the chickens trotting around wherever they pleased.

Being in that situation for so long, practically alone except for an occasional group outing with other English teachers who could venture into deeper conversational waters than “Do you like NBA?”, not being able to speak my thoughts and feelings- at length and in depth- was probably the burden that weighed on me most in China. Many times, I would find myself wanting to cry out to someone, “Can you believe these people?” only to look around and see everyone else either involved in said situation or blissfully unaware of what had me in shock. They were these people. Silently, I would cry out, “None of you notice that girl using the sidewalk as a bathroom? That 9-year old girl, squatting right there? You do notice, but you don’t care!?” My perspective would neither be understood nor welcomed, so my moments of exasperation had to be swallowed and left to fester as unanswered objections and misery.

Throughout all of these “Can you believe this?” experiences, Aunt Fong would plead with me, “Don’t angry China.” She would even beg me to blame her for my disappointment, the one person in China and in my life who was with me whenever she could be and always looked out for me. She made sure I had meals, checked on me at my university, took me to the Sanda (kickboxing) gym and introduced me to the instructor, took me along on various dinners and social outings with her friends, and planned weekend and holiday trips so I could see and potentially enjoy China. Far from being blameworthy, Aunt Fong was my constant companion in China and the only reason I stayed longer than my teaching duties required.

Near the last of my evil days in China, my evil countenance said it all. Aunt Fong, at left, was still keeping a sunny demeanor.

Near the last of my evil days in China, my evil countenance said it all. Aunt Fong, at left, was still keeping a sunny demeanor.

Well, it so happened that while in my summertime blues, feeling diseased, dejected, and disgusted, Aunt Fong felt inspired for us to take a weekend bus trip to the coast and tour a resort town. It wasn’t her first plan (that trip fell through), but as we returned to her apartment complex one afternoon, she stopped to pick up a flyer and listen to the pitch of a sales representative (a young lady who looked like she might be a college sophomore) standing at a marketing table outside her apartment gates. At the time, I had no idea what the trip was all about; I didn’t even recognize the section of map enlarged in the brochure.

All I knew was that Aunt Fong was initially excited about it and thought it would be a great opportunity for me to see a beautiful seaside area. In her mind, she still thought she could win me over on China and get me to stick around another year. Of course, as soon as Uncle Jiang learned of the trip, he chided me, while chewing sunflower seeds and pacing the living room floor, “No! ….no! Tell her, ‘No….’” He was very convincing, groaning out syllables in a gruff tone and setting his face in an inflexible frown.

It only put me in an uncomfortable spot. There was no way I was going to dash Aunt Fong’s hopes and tell her no, and I could likewise neither tell Uncle Jiang to his face, “It ain’t happenin’.”

The next afternoon, when a different sales rep, a young man in his early 20’s, came over to my aunt’s apartment to sign us up and collect the trip fee, she looked at me tentatively and checked if I really wanted to go. “How much is it?” I asked. Cheap, she said, and she was paying.

“How long is the bus ride?” I asked her through Chinese, English, and the mutual understanding we had developed through our time together. It would take about 10 hours to drive to our vacation spot, which would be spent riding Friday night through early, early Saturday morning. Then, on Sunday afternoon we would have to load up and make the return trip home. I wasn’t excited about spending 20 hours plus of the weekend in transit, trying unsuccessfully to sleep on a Chinese bus, so the reason I asked this question was to convey to Aunt Fong that I did not think this trip was worth the travel. I had heard that the Chinese were practitioners of the indirect response; so was I.

There was a moment where she waited on me, looking sympathetic and unsure of my answer, and I sighed and shifted uncomfortably as I begrudgingly told her okay. The sales rep knew enough English to tell me that when I was at the beach, pictured in the brochure, my heart would feel amazing. That wasn’t the point. My aunt thought it would be a good trip and we could have fun seeing a new place. She wanted to make me happy, and I wanted to make her happy, so I consented.

I was miserable, but if being happy would make her happy, I was willing to give it a try.

I was miserable, but if being happy would make her happy, I was willing to give it a try.

On Friday evening we loaded our bags and took a taxi to the travel company’s office. I refer to them as a travel company, not because I fully understood their business, but because as a naïve outsider I had to make inferences and plug along despite my gaps in comprehending the situation.

We waited an exceptionally long time in a building lobby that could have served as a set for a Jackie Chan movie where he beats up the thugs in their derelict, dumpy hideout. Then, we chanced fate and squeezed into a typically trashy Chinese elevator and rode up with ten other people. It was not the first time I was in a precariously slow elevator and my group tripped the weight limit buzzer or had to turn people away.

Upstairs, we walked into a room clearly separated into plain-clothed travelers and business-dressed sales reps. Most of them were young men with white dress shirts and black slacks, and there were a couple young ladies in sexy black mini-skirts. There was always something a little off about Chinese dress clothes, which were almost always in the typical Western style. They were cheap-looking with frilly style accents like a fanciful extra button or a diagonal seam running across a pant leg. I surveyed the scene of that waiting room in an instant and groaned about what I feared was coming. Not a sales pitch, it’s Friday night, let’s just get on the road. I had sat through a sales pitch a few weeks before, when on a tour group through the famous Yellow Mountain, but that was only for tea, so the ladies walked around with samples (some of them quite good) and I and the two students who accompanied me just slumped in our seats and drifted to sleep until the 30-minute meeting was over.

Sleeping, the unanswerable objection to any sales pitch.

Sleeping, the unanswerable objection to any sales pitch.

At the travel office, they didn’t pitch anything to us. Not yet. They led us down the hall to another room for some reason I wasn’t privy to, then a minute later we were back into the elevator that looked like it had been stripped for parts, then onto the bus. All the young people in business dress accompanied us tourists on board, a ratio of one company rep to two tourists. It hadn’t yet dawned on me why we would possibly need so many hired hands to accompany us on a weekend getaway. Cheap Chinese labor costs, I guessed.

Our group, 30 to 40 large, piled into our seats and snacked as we gabbed and watched a movie on the overhead screens. (One thing about China: no business or public transportation system attempted to forbid outside food or drink. People chewed seeds and spit the shells out, noisily tore through plastic to get to eggs, noodles, or pickled meats, and they littered on the ground whenever they didn’t have a waste bag convenient, which was often in the lacking infrastructure of China. In China, trash is what you make it.) To my relief, Aunt Fong suggested we move out of our restricting seats so I could stretch out my long legs in the back row. Once there, the young company employees seated in the back area turned around out of curiosity and struck up an excited conversation with this charming middle-aged woman and her foreign friend. The young men asked me the usual questions, but their English was decent enough, plus the excitement of the trip spurned them on, so they tried more than I used to to have a good back-and-forth talk with me.

Then, unprovoked by anyone, one of the two young ladies working for the company, sitting near the back row, turned around in her seat and blurted in Chinese that she thought I was handsome and wanted to know if I had a girlfriend. This girl was very easy on the eyes, and for a moment I thought my luck in China might have changed. I had no idea how I would functionally communicate with her, but during that bus ride she conveyed that there was a water park back in Aunt Fong’s home city that we could go to together. I was left to think over her advances as I uncomfortably shifted on the back row of seats, letting my feet hang down in the aisle until it bothered my back, then lying flat across the seats until it hurt my neck. Through the quiet hours of the night, I phased in and out of semi-consciousness until our bus slowed to a lurch and released its air brakes outside the hotel.

The time was right before sunrise on Saturday morning, and we had a couple hours until the company reps would come knock on our door to make way to our first destination. Aunt Fong was exhausted, but I was restless after the poor sleep, so I left her to snooze in our hotel room while I went out for a run. Our hotel was situated at the top of a steep hill, overlooking a shabby amusement park, garden area, and groups of hotels lining the valley along the river. As I explored, I observed how unusually clean and empty the streets were, how new the buildings looked, how planned and color-coordinated they seemed, and how many trees were planted along the broad sidewalks. Every other Chinese city I had been to was clamoring with people, scooters, cars, and animals by sun-up. This place was practically deserted by those standards, and judging by appearances it resembled a seaside American vacation spot- the skies were even (mostly) blue!

I came back to the hotel room, had to rouse poor Aunt Fong awake from her brief snooze, and set out with her and a company rep closely at our heels, who hurriedly insisted that he carry our bags for us. After driving through the town for a half-hour and listening to the other female representative clamor into a microphone (“SHA-SHA-SHEY-BAR-BAH-SHEE-BAH-BAI-SHA-SHEE-SHOO-SHOW-JI-KWAI-BAI-BAR-SHU-SHA-SHA-SHOW!”), presumably to build everyone’s excitement for the trip (and that must be one of the most awful sounds I have ever been subjected to– shrill Chinese barked over a scratchy speaker system), the bus pulled over and our group was ushered off to see our first site.

IMG_0009

An overwhelming crowd of tourists, each shadowed by a young company rep, milled around at the gate below a mountain whereon was nestled a very large, seated Buddha statue. The company escort assigned to my aunt and me (the same man who came to her apartment and signed us up), started to become obnoxious, walking step by step beside us and forwardly offering to take our picture at the gate. It still hadn’t dawned on me why there were so many travel company employees accompanying the tourists on the trip, why there could possibly be a need for one rep for every two tourists. I figured we could take our own pictures. Chinese crowds might be exceptionally callous, but there were always a few friendly volunteers to help hold a camera. Like most things I didn’t understand about China, I chalked this nonsense up to the way people there did things.

I wasn’t the least bit interested or impressed with the mountain’s idol, so after observing it momentarily I went back to milling about aimlessly, like all the other tourists, for the next 30 minutes. 30 minutes of pacing around a blank plaza and parking lot. Okay, there were a couple gates with some frilly ornamental carving and Chinese characters on them, like there are gates in front of every other place in China, but other than that there was nothing to do there. Eventually, everyone made it back to the bus and we continued on through the town. That was a letdown, I thought, this beach had better be impressive.

It wasn’t. It was populated with swimmers and loungers- some in tight one-piece swimsuits, some in bizarre, bright orange, Chinese beachwear- but my group was only there to walk along the broad concrete barrier that served as a lookout point. It was also a station for another dopey statue, this one a crescent moon with a face. The company rep took our picture again (what a burn that is to yield to a courtesy you don’t wish for), then Aunt Fong and I walked down to spend a moment on the beach. I was less than overjoyed at that point. One, the setting didn’t seem all that great- spending a half-hour each at a simple beach and the base of a small mountain was nowhere near worth a 10-hour bus ride. And two, the vigor I felt earlier during my morning jog had fast dissipated. I struggled to put on a happy face and pose on the beach as Aunt Fong took my picture, and as we marched back to the bus I felt my familiar stomach pain returning.

Note the breathing mask, parasol, and bright orange purse and shoes, de rigueur for the young Chinese lady at that time.

Note the breathing mask, parasol, and bright orange purse and shoes, de rigueur for the young Chinese lady at that time.

China's version of McDonald's Mac Tonight "Moon Man" character from the '80's?

China’s version of McDonald’s Mac Tonight “Moon Man” character from the ’80’s?

They took us to a restaurant, where we filed through the kitchen and up two flights of very narrow stairs, then into a dining room that struggled to contain four large, round tables and enough chairs to fit most everyone on the bus. (Walking through the kitchen, or inside then outside then inside, or past a utility room or a small bedroom, or even walking past the pens of the sheep you were about to eat, was not uncommon in small, family-owned restaurants.) I grimaced at the sight of the food set before us. Except for the mantou (steamed buns), most everything had the familiar reddish-orange tint of overly spiced, oily food.

At that point, my stomach pain and appetite were about even, so I tentatively choked down some food, which seemed foolish because the unsavory food was the primary culprit causing my recurring stomach pain in China. Consider though, I had no alternative food source than what was set in front of me. China does not have prevalent convenience stores in most areas, and the snack shops they do have are not very accommodating to Western palettes (more spiced meats and tofu, and instant ramen noodles). So, to feed my natural hunger and try and maintain strength, I would usually stick with the safest options, like noodles and soup, and avoid irritating dishes containing chili peppers.

My eating strategy was no help. Back on the bus I lay down and shut my eyes, resting the back of my hand across my face for relief. I didn’t care where our tour group went to next; I only wanted a long bus ride so I could take a nap. But then- !

The bus began sloshing one way then another, slowly bouncing up and down as it crawled forward. What is this? I sat up, angered and annoyed, and looked out the window. We were at a construction site. The bus driver was navigating over potholes on a dirt service road. I thought for sure he was either lost or incompetent, having chosen a stupid place to make a U-turn, but after five minutes of abuse by shocks, winding past hollow concrete structures, the driver parked in a row behind two or three other buses and the company reps made a commotion to hustle us off right away.

Hollow apartment buildings outside and the tension of a hot bus inside, the darkness descends.

Hollow apartment buildings outside and the tension of a hot bus inside, the darkness descends.

In a daze of sleep and sickness, I asked myself what the rush was, why we needed to see the end of this construction lot, and again “What was wrong with these people?” Then, out in the bright summer light, I surveyed the apartment buildings under construction and heard the blare of loud dance music, drums, and a girl’s voice screaming over the large PA system inside the ranch-style building in front of us. Then, I watched as the bus driver locked the door and walked off with his wife to find a napping spot. I swallowed hard.

They had stranded us for a timeshare pitch.

The multi-colored streamers, loud sounds, and legions of sales reps were intended to excite us, but I could not have felt more dread. Facts of life, transferred from American to Chinese terms, usually turned out louder, smellier, dirtier, much more populated, and just plain miserable. We faced the nefarious timeshare pitch, but not in comparatively tame America- in China. What horrors did our captors have planned for us?

As I drug my feet down the salesmen-lined walkway leading into the building, I glowered at their broad, crocodilian smiles and glib welcome cheers. Aunt Fong was tugging at my arm, pleading, “Don’t angry. Don’t angry.” I was too far out of my senses to know what to do other than resent having to spend part of my afternoon inside their sales office. If I had my health, I would have followed my plan of exploring the construction site and the surrounding town on foot. I strongly considered this option later on, as our annoying sales rep followed me out to the open lot where they liked to show their marks the site of the next proposed apartment building. Sadly, I could feel I didn’t have the strength to walk off. My body was quivering and I thought I might need to use the sales office’s nearby toilets, however filthy, at any moment.

Could I just walk off and explore?

Could I just walk off and explore?

Reasoning with myself (the desperate recourse of a man stuck in a hopeless situation), I suspected that my aunt and I would be held for an hour and then, after our repeated refusals, they would have to let us go. After an hour, all the tourists will have said yes or several times said no, so that will be all, right? I was underestimating the depth of indecency within the timeshare salesmen of what must surely be the country with the greatest impropriety in the Orient, if not the whole of Asia.

Continued in Part 2.

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