"You can observe a lot by watching." -Yogi Berra

Tag: Handsome in China

The Real China: Handsome Foreign Spies and Open Secrets

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Posters across Beijing are warning Chinese women to beware of handsome foreign men who might be romancing state secrets out of them. You can see the full comic-style poster and read about it here and here.

As the consensus most shuai guh (handsome guy) among the students and teachers at my university, I should state now that the only secrets I blazed abroad were the open secrets: that China is a rotten, awful country deserving of universal censure, a place of proverbial lawlessness and pollution, with foul-mouthed pushy masses of people fouling the earth with their trash, spit, and excrement, and the cars, buses, and bikes on the streets destroying any peace with their recklessness and blaring horns, and all the selfish, crowded ugliness happening under the sagging smog of the dishwater-colored sky.

But back to the story of the comic, one thing I’ve never understood is how so-called handsome foreign men are even persuading local Chinese women to date them. All my small talk fizzled out before it ever got flirtatious.

Me: So, what do you like to do?

Aggressively Introverted Chinese girl: I LIKE… WATCH TV.

Me, smiling solicitously: Okay. Do you like anything else?

Her: JUST WATCH TV.

Me, giggling nervously: Okay, that’s good. Do you like TV dramas? Prison Break?

Her: …

Me, after a deflating pause: Do you like sleeping?

Her: YES. I LIKE.

[END CONVERSATION AS BOTH LOOK AROUND FOR SOMETHING TO DISTRACT THEMSELVES WITH.]

I learned to assume that everyone in China counted sleeping or dreaming as a hobby. One girl took being a cold fish to an extreme though and told me she had no interests, nothing, even despite me pressing her if she liked the staples of sleep and TV. In a way, that’s a lot more interesting than saying “JUST WATCH TV.”

So, I have no idea how the few foreign guys I saw in China with Chinese girlfriends got that way. I assume they wore it on their sleeve that they were looking for a Chinese girlfriend and they found their inverse half in a worldly metropolis like Beijing.

And- hold everything- since when was it that foreigners were spying on China and not the other way around? Is there a single piece of military equipment, a single automobile, computer, clothing line, or Chinese toy that was not blatantly cheated and copied from foreign sources? A friend of mine works as an engineer for a car company and he’s told me how his management has issued real warnings- not simple cartoons that are getting laughed at in China and abroad- about sharing too much data with Chinese clients because of the now obvious business wisdom that China steals and spies out whatever intellectual property it can.

But this is communist tyranny. Everything corrupts from the inside, from the top down, with the stiff-browed leaders perpetually making highhanded, doublespeak excuses and laughably see-through shows of triumphal patriotism and Big Brother brainwashing. What an awful country.

In fact, at one dinner a few talented English students of mine confessed to me that they all three wanted foreign boyfriends because they found them much more handsome and appealing than Chinese men. Now, I met a lot of decent, likable guys in China, but I could see the ladies’ point. The Chinese husbands I witnessed too often showed off domineering, drinking, dismissive, pouty, entitled behavior, not caring who was watching and seeming to have no appreciation for how much more attractive and shapely their wives were compared to them.

As I’ve said before, the greatest threat from foreign guests in China, handsome or not, is when they see China for what it really is.

The Real China: “A Handsome American Guy Studies Kung Fu”

Television is a fun gauge of a nation’s psyche. A look into how a people entertain themselves speaks volumes about who the people are. In America, football, zombies, gritty cop dramas, and sophomoric, snarky sitcoms reign supreme. Chinese TV is dominated by historical fantasies of slaughtering Japan’s invading soldiers, romantic melodramas, singing showcases, dry news reports, and sports (basketball, volleyball, and ping pong- what else).

I didn’t watch much television in China. While it was an entertaining spectacle to flip through when I was home alone and bored, which was quite often, I instead spent most of my free time on the slow-as-molasses and “Great Firewall” blocked internet, or out exercising and exploring around my college campus. When I did watch TV, I would spend a minute on the (mostly) ping-pong and volleyball channel, then click up through several song and dance channels, some serials, and one movie channel that would occasionally play something spoken in English or subtitled. I was at times so desperate for an English-language movie that I’d stay up late to watch whatever forgotten American garbage was airing, like Cheaper by the Dozen 2 until I couldn’t take it any more and went to bed.

Mostly I turned on the television to watch the English language news channel and try to feel somewhat connected to the outside world from my surreal hinterland outpost. The news channels were state-controlled, like all the rest, so it was interesting to note the edge in Chinese reporters’ voices when discussing an issue related to U.S. actions and Chinese sovereignty (not so ironically, each channel is called “CCTV” followed by a number, which stands for China Central Television instead of closed-circuit television). On the surprising bright side, a typical newscast was a plain rundown of international headlines and summits, so the number of biased statements and gimmicks per minute was surprisingly fewer than a typical American broadcast.

Chinese newspapers were completely impenetrable by my illiterate eyes, so I never bothered with one. In my observation, daily newspaper reading was not all that common of a habit in the small (by Chinese standards) cities where I spent the majority of my time. I didn’t see anyone carrying them in hand while commuting through the subways and crowded streets of the Tier 1 cities, either. While I cannot comment on daily readership numbers, I can say from my perspective that I did not notice anyone carrying a newspaper with them, reading it over breakfast, or collecting piles of old papers in their living room or office. The first time I noticed the local newspaper was when I penetrated its sports page as a story. And as long as I am going to do a little boasting, I should add that this was after I was featured on the local television news channel.

So first: how I got on television. It began when Aunt Fong took me around to try and find a martial arts school.

Martial arts training can be very informal in China, and by that I mean I regularly saw tai chi and kung fu groups meeting in the park- perhaps as few as two or three friends practicing their techniques together, or one man sweeping a two-handed sword or pole-arm through the air. Aunt Fong introduced me to a colleague or friend of hers (someone connected to her gwan-shee network) who practiced his routines every morning in a riverside park, so I did get a taste of this do-it-yourself kung fu. About once a week during the spring, Aunt Fong would nag me to wake up extra early and take a taxi to meet “Big” Wei, or Da Wei, as we called him in Chinese, before he finished his 6 a.m. practice and headed back home. While I was thankful to Aunt Fong and Da Wei for the time he spent teaching me a lengthy kung fu routine, and I was open to learn and integrate kung fu techniques into my martial arts knowledge, my heart was just not into performing choreographed, fossilized routines. I wanted to continue the martial arts I had pursued in the United States and develop my skills to a competitive level.

There were no schools nearby for me to practice any wrestling or grappling like the Brazilian jiu-jitsu I studied back in America (those schools exist only in China’s major cities- it is still a nation obsessed with its ancient traditions over contemporary fascinations like mixed martial arts and BJJ), but Aunt Fong had a friend who practiced Sanda, or what might generically be called “kickboxing” in America. She knew I wanted to practice at a serious gym, so she took me there to meet the coach. Master Wei, not Big Wei, was a trim, middle-aged man with an army crew cut and a block-shaped head. His physique did not immediately tip me off that he was a former champion and coach, but when I felt the power of his right hook and watched as he used breath control to take my best punch to his stomach again and again without flinching, I sensed serious power in his modest size. Also, he amazing abilities like the way he could sit cross-legged and use his only his two pointer fingers and thumbs to elevate himself off the floor.

Master Wei’s school was on the second level of a small retail space, indistinct from all the other dingy, white-walled retail spaces lining the downtown city blocks. The gym upstairs was filled with weight-lifting machines, heavy punching bags, and floor mats. During class nights, young kids would come after school and horse around until Master Wei or his nephew would step in, blow the whistle, and start class. Then, all the kids and some adults would run in circles or perform the same leg-swinging exercises for what seemed like forever. Thirty minutes is a very brief time respective to most things, but it is an unendurably long time to repeat the same floor exercise or run in tight ovals without a break. Master Wei would just shout, “Come on!” or blast his whistle as we struggled. He was a strict taskmaster who had never been influenced by the American idea to keep all of the students engaged or entertained.

Sometimes, he would pair students up for sparring or a partner exercise, tell us to begin, then go downstairs to take a half-hour phone call, leaving us to continue the exercise indefinitely. Other times, he would sit and watch his nephew and I fight each other, chiming in “Very good!” if I did something right, or pulling his nephew to the side to scold and slap him with his whistle cord when he did something wrong. Not that I was the one getting the best of his nephew- more often it was just the opposite, but Master Wei wasn’t related to me so that meant I was spared these whistle cord whips.

Those punishment breaks were the only pause in the action. Normally, Master Wei’s nephew and I would fight each other until I saw parents arriving after dark to pick their children up from the gym. Then, I knew my reprieve was mercifully near. Aunt Fong would walk me home as I hobbled on ankles and shin bones that felt like crushed glass. (Here, I tell how a minor injury from fighting at the gym turned into a serious problem that made necessary my first hospital visit.)

My very minor television appearance occurred one afternoon after I finished my classes and took a taxi to meet Aunt Fong at her university before heading off to my normally scheduled Sanda practice. At her campus, I was surprised by a small group of her colleagues and student friends who were expecting me as my taxi arrived. One of her excited students told me that a television crew was coming to film me for the news. I wasn’t sure I could believe her; I did not see why they would be interested in filming me or how the local TV station would even know about me.

But in small city China, word of a young, tall foreigner gets around. Students in my English classes would tell me how their friends had seen me eating at the cafeteria, or shopping downtown- sometimes they would show me unnerving pictures that their friends had taken of me unaware in the middle of class or from across campus. Uncle Jiang (Aunt Fong’s husband) once forbid me to run outside the university campus after the school security guards (I assumed) told him or a link of the social grape vine that they saw me running along the street outside the school’s gate. So I was skeptical that I was newsworthy, but not completely surprised when I came to Aunt Fong’s office building and saw a camera crew waiting outside.

They filmed me walking around the campus, playing ping-pong with a ping-pong professor (they really have those in China) and play-fighting with another young man in front of a crowd of students. Then, the camera crew followed me to the Sanda gym and filmed me training on punching mitts with Master Wei. After the workout, one of Aunt Fong’s friends served as a translator so I could be interviewed. She relayed questions to me about my training and competition experience in America. I tried to explain to her that I had only fought a few fights, as an amateur, and my competition awards were not championships but awards for having finished two of my fights with the “Submission of the Night”. Good luck explaining what “Submission of the Night” meant to a provincial Chinese audience. I was afraid I was being set up as the great white hope of my college town, and as a foreign novelty I would be matched to fight some Chinese giant with bad intentions.

"No, no, I said I killed seven FLIES with one blow!"

“No, no, I said I killed seven FLIES with one blow!”

I never did get to see my segment on the news. It aired during a holiday week, while I was away in Shanghai, and Aunt Fong said she couldn’t record it.

Master Wei thought that I was good enough to audition, along with his nephew, for a spot on the national broadcast of kickboxing fights: Wu Lin Feng. The prospect of fighting professionally and being able to earn an income from martial arts became my incentive to return to the gym for my regular session of Thursday through Sunday beatings by the hands and feet of Master Wei’s nephew. I was always relieved when Master Wei told us to practice boxing- no knees or kicks- because it was less painful to be hit primarily in the head versus the legs and body, and I could use my long arms to outbox Master Wei’s much shorter nephew.

My newspaper appearance came a couple months later, also due to my training at Master Wei’s gym, and also reported by the same journalist who produced my TV story. In a Chinese martial arts school, students are accepted by their teacher in a formal ceremony where the student pays obeisance to the teacher, is accepted by him, and then they dine together with friends. The night of my ceremony, I knew something formal was about to take place, but I had only a foggy idea of what it was all about and could not fathom how formal and well-attended it would be.

I met two other students, also being officially accepted by Master Wei as students, in the lobby of a nice restaurant near the gym: Ma Cao, a colleague of Aunt Fong’s who taught exercise science and possessed the largest calves proportional to body mass I have ever seen on a human being, and a very skinny college student who I suspected was mostly into training Sanda so he could boast about it to girls. Ma Cao was wearing a mandarin suit; I only had on the khaki pants I wore to my classes that day and a black, wool jacket over my sweater. I felt shamefully underdressed in my normal teaching clothes and I began to get the sense that this ceremonial dinner was of much bigger import than I had assumed. I thought we would probably bow, shake hands, and sign a certificate before training at the gym, but the event at the restaurant was shaping up to become an all-night affair.

Ma Cao showing off his giant calves.

Ma Cao showing off his giant calves.

Before most of the guests arrived, we three students took out our billfolds and divided our “lucky money” into three red envelopes so we could present them as gifts to Master Wei. If you want to be someone’s student in China, you had better have a red envelope full of lucky money with their name on it. We had to count out the luckiest of numbers- 888 Chinese yuan- which had me smirking because this number in Chinese is said, “ba bai ba shi ba.” For a moment, as our small group counted and repeated the sum, we sounded like a small chorus of sheep. Then, minutes later, Master Wei, his family, and all of his old kung fu friends arrived. The journalist came with camera in hand to take pictures of our ceremony.

One after another, we three students stood in front of Master Wei and his wife, who were seated on a small couch in the dining room. Then, we poured them each a cup of tea, and bowed. My two friends did a full kowtow on a floor cushion, but Aunt Fong told me to do just a formal standing bow, hands held together. The newspaper reporter captured this scene and it ran under the headline “A Handsome American Guy/ Studies Kung Fu.” I am not making that up. The sub-heading read how I strived to conquer the competition arena “Wu Lin Feng” within one year. This translation was made for me by a Chinese friend with an English degree and excellent English skills, so skeptical, bilingual readers can check the translation for themselves. The original Chinese headlines are 美国帅小伙/ 珠城学功夫 and 力争一年内“武林风”擂台扬威.)

I'm featured in the story on the right, not the one above the women's curling team.

I’m featured in the story on the right, not the one above the women’s curling team.

After the bow, Master Wei, his kung fu colleagues, and I signed a red certificate that said something about how he would teach me and I would be a good student. I was afraid Master Wei would resent it if I ever trained at a different school and possibly track me down to challenge me to mortal combat, like in the movies, but Aunt Fong assured me our teacher-student agreement was not exclusive. I am still alive to this day, so it turns out she was right.

With the contracts signed, the kung fu teachers and students went out into the lobby to take commemorative pictures for a full hour. I stood in with every possible permutation of people involved with the ceremony. After eight o’clock, the picture-taking died down and I was able to join all the people in the dining room who had already been eating while I was in the lobby. It was typical in China to eat foods that had been sitting on the table for half an hour or longer, so coming in to find stacks of room-temperature food didn’t bother me. Master Wei’s new students footed the bill that night, so all the platters and excess amounts of rice liquor were partially funded on my honor. (More about Chinese dining and drinking customs in “Bottoms Up!”)

The wannabe heart throb on the left (I never learned his name), Master Wei sitting in front of me, and Ma Cao on the right.

The wannabe heart throb on the left (I never learned his name), Master Wei sitting in front of me, and Ma Cao on the right.

Joining the students of honor in this picture are Aunt Fong and, I think, a kung fu teacher or university professor in the red jacket.

Joining the students of honor in this picture are Aunt Fong and, I think, a kung fu teacher or university professor in the red jacket.

Master Wei's very tough nephew on the left.

Master Wei’s very tough nephew on the left.

So how did my training with Master Wei turn out? Did I realize my dream of competing as a professional martial artist? After my foot injury in the fall, I trained regularly at the (unheated) gym over the winter and got toughened up quite a bit by Master Wei’s Spartan practices. But, concurrently, China as a whole was dragging down my health and emotions. By the time the spring semester had wrapped up and I had open days to devote to training in the now sweltering gym, I felt so forlorn that I lost nearly all spirit to fight. It didn’t feel good to train anymore. Master Wei could tell that my emotions were poor and my heart was fading. He proposed that if I wanted to compete on the televised show, I would need to train full-time for two months and try out in August. I would need my visa extended for that, but I thought it might be worth it. Realizing a martial arts dream seemed worth it to try with all my might, even if that meant staying in China for another two months or a year.

Alas, I could not deny my flagging spirits and health, and at the end of June/early July I became so ill that I had to stay in the hospital for three days.
Training became unthinkable.

Looking out at the brownish-gray sky from my hospital bed, I only wanted to leave China for a clean country where I could convalesce in soul and body. At the end of July, I departed from the Hefei airport with a souvenir newspaper in my luggage.

My view from my top floor hospital window. The window pane itself was clean, it was the outside which was so dirty.

The Real China: 20 Questions

Teaching English class in China got stale quickly, not unlike steamed rice. (I promise, that is the only bad joke in this post.) So, I had to find ways to fill the classroom silence besides answering my own questions. Too many times I opened class by asking, “How was your weekend?” or “How was your holiday?” and then watching every face turn away and pretend I wasn’t talking to them. In that crushing void of interaction, which could last up to a few minutes depending on how foolhardy I was in pursuing my goal of English small talk, I would sigh and lower my gaze to the chalk dust-covered podium before me, muttering to myself, “This is going to be a long two hours.”

Even games excited no enthusiasm- they were just another silly burden in my students’ eyes- but I gave them a try in hopes of building classroom chemistry and, let’s be honest, to fill dead class time.

20 Questions should get the students talking, I thought, because they would be forced to form yes-or-no questions and think of clever ways to narrow down the secret person or object. I drew a simple diagram on the chalkboard to make the game’s rules explicitly clear, then gave my first-year college students an example using “Kobe Bryant” as my mystery person.

I asked myself questions like “Are you Chinese?” No.

“Are you American?” Yes.

“Are you a famous basketball player?” Yes.

I spent a few rounds thinking up straightforward mystery objects and fielding student questions, which came ever so slowly as I pulled them out of my inert pupils and fed them new lines to quiz me with. Once I felt that the students were bored of me and themselves approaching lukewarm on the classroom chemistry meter (and lukewarm was about as hot as that class ever got) I boldly raised my voice and called for a student volunteer.

Hesitantly, my student, whose English name was “Bear,” really, came forward and whispered in my ear, “I am a bear.” I nodded, smiled, and stepped aside.

Question 1 from his classmates: “Are you a man?”

“No.”

Question 2: “Are you a bear?”

“AARRGH!” Bear ground his teeth and shuffled back to his seat in shame. His classmates were roaring with laughter. It was the fastest game of 20 Questions I’d ever witnessed.

In another class, with around 45 female students and 5 males, I had an equally brief game that I had to cut short myself. I had finished the main lesson with a little less than 5 minutes of class time left over. College classes don’t let out early in China, and the one time I accidentally ended a class early a couple students objected that there were however many minutes left.

So, since my fourth-year class of mostly female students was pretty sharp and I could tell they comprehended most of my English, I quickly explained the rules of 20 Questions and said, “Okay, now ask me a yes-or-no question.”

Probably just one game, I figured, and then I can let them go.

“Do you have a girlfriend?” one girl instantly called out.

“No,” I said, confused. What does that matter in a game of 20 Quest-

“DO YOU WANT A CHINESE GIRLFRIEND!” someone else blurted. The rest of the class practically erupted.

“Wh-?” I stammered. “All right!” I said, flustered, “No more 20 Questions!” I hid my red face by turning my back to the class as I swiftly erased the chalkboard. “Class is over.” I heard a lot of giggling as they gathered their books and scurried out the doors.

This class was usually my best class of the week. I had them on Friday mornings, they were always in a good mood, and they were always active. Plus, it wasn’t so bad to feel like Professor Indiana Jones with a class of cute admirers.

This class was usually my best class of the week. I had them on Friday mornings, they were always in a good mood, and always active. Plus, it wasn’t so bad to feel like Professor Indiana Jones with a class of cute admirers.

The Real China: Questions I Could Not Answer

Being an American in China (or just being a white-faced foreigner from an English-speaking country), attracted a lot of attention from the locals. I was one of a very small sample of non-Chinese people in an area of around 3 million people, and after months of living as the only white man in a small university town (small in Chinese terms, as the official count of the county was over 600,000 people), I too became shocked whenever I saw another laowai– foreigner. Most Chinese were too shy to approach me or come out and speak directly to me, but that didn’t prevent them from blurting out “Laowai!” as I walked past or surreptitiously peeking over their shoulder when I was near. I could always tell, while walking on campus, when one girl in a pair had spotted me walking behind them. Their voices would get suspiciously low, and a couple seconds later, her friend would slyly look back at me, and then they’d both giggle.

Occasionally, a few students would find me walking through the campus and ask to take a picture with me (most would just try to sneak a shot with their camera phone), and I would always oblige them with a pose. Other brave souls would walk straight up to me, in the middle of whatever I was doing- shopping, eating, jogging, exercising- and start firing off the frequently asked questions (e.g. “Can you speak Chinese?” “Are you America?”).

Because America has the most dominant popular culture and everyone knew about my homeland from movies and the news, I held a lot of appeal to most of the people I met. Countless times I heard from someone how they had always dreamed of going to America but couldn’t because of the expense. Many young people would stare at me awestruck with an open smile, not saying anything, their imaginations soaring with images of the fabled life they had seen on screen. It was tempting to assume their wonder was due to my presence, but really any foreigner would receive the same reaction as a representative of a far-off land the natives had previously only imagined. A young white man, in China, would have to have a horn growing out of his forehead not to be admired and called handsome. So, the Chinese, especially the younger generation, carried impressions of foreigners that would excite them to speak to me.

On the other hand, there were quite a few tense car rides and dull, uncomfortable moments at the dinner table where I sat in silence with a middle-aged man who either had no interest in American topics or lacked the English to step out and meet me in the middle ground between our cultures. Not to say that I expected my hosts to cater to me. As a guest in their country I did respect that Chinese was the language of the land. Mostly, I tagged along as a silent observer and conversation piece in social situations; getting to speak with a young Chinese man fluent in English, or a female student with exceptional English skills, was a rare treat.

But in most situations, I was not comfortable enough to ask conversational questions in Chinese, and the English questions my hosts felt socially obligated to ask would only underline the awkward gap between us. At a restaurant, it was only polite for my hosts to ask me what I wanted to eat, but I only knew the name of a handful of Chinese dishes. “What would you like to eat?” they would ask, expecting me to select a restaurant, or, if we were at the restaurant, a list of items (typically, a party at a restaurant will select enough items to cover the table with plates, not one entrée per person as is the norm in the US). This question was practically impossible for me to answer since the only restaurant names I knew were KFC and hot pot (not the name of a restaurant but a type of restaurant where meats, vegetables, and noodles are dipped into a broiling pot of spicy soup on your table). For dishes, I would select a certain kind of black mushroom (mu-er or 木耳/ “wood ear”) or I would try and get off the hook by saying, “Uh… chicken?”

I had no idea what was written on any of the menus, so the only way I could choose anything was by pointing at the pictures (if the menu had them) or by walking up front to the display coolers in the restaurant lobby and letting my pointer finger get to work. Living in a foreign country with abstruse written symbols meant almost always having adults choose my food for me when eating out, an experience that humbled me back to childhood.

It could also be frustrating, having to answer “What would you like to eat?” and thinking How should I know? This is your country’s food. You choose.

At the riverside park with Aunt Fong and Uncle Jiang.

At the riverside park with Aunt Fong and Uncle Jiang.

The dinner question I hated most was one of (Aunt Fong’s husband and therefore) “Uncle” Jiang’s favorites. I would reach out with my chopsticks to sample one of the many lukewarm meats from the pile of plates on the table (having so many dishes at one meal meant things often sat around while waiting for the rest to get cooked; I suppose that people had eventually gotten used to and preferred lukewarm platters- but they always drank hot water), and once I put the strange meat in my mouth Mr. Jiang would ask, “Dustin… what is that?”

I stopped chewing. “Beef?” I would venture, desperately hoping I was right. I knew it wasn’t chicken, or at least it looked nothing like chicken as I had seen it before.

“No,” Uncle Jiang spouted with a breathy Chinese accent.

It’s not beef, and it can’t be chicken- oh no- this had better be pork because it sure isn’t fish. “Is it pork?” I asked, stifling my voice from cracking.

“No.”

Oh no, it’s dog. I’m eating dog. That is the only other dark meat.

My throat stiffened. Maybe Uncle Jiang had misunderstood me or confused his vocabulary.

“No, I am wrong,” he said, “It is beef.”

I breathed easier and smiled. “Okay.”

Uncle Jiang played this mystery meat game with me on several occasions, usually following the same routine. I would begrudgingly guess wrong a couple times and then wait to hear from him that he was wrong and it was beef after all. He had no idea how nervous this made me. I never ate dog in China, as far as I know, but I did see it as butchered meat on a few occasions (as a skull with cheek meat or a whole red carcass), and the sight of a hanging, skinless dog was more difficult to see than I was prepared for.

Not very different from the “What restaurant do you like?” question was “What is your favorite tea?” As a tea culture, the Chinese can tell the subtle difference between red, white, green, and black teas and all their subtle varieties. When Americans say they prefer green over oo-long tea at a restaurant or coffee shop, I am skeptical they are faking it. To me, tea comes in two flavors: bitter and sugar-added. Asking someone their favorite kind of tea is a cultural assumption; it seemed a polite inquiry to my hosts but sounded baffling to me. They would bring their tea mugs and thermoses everywhere, and if there was tea in the mug it would be made obvious by the mass of loose green leaves soaking in the water. Tea bags weren’t used in China; the leaves were preserved whole for better appearance, smell, and flavor. The people scrupulously prized the different varieties, reserving the finest- those purchased at any of the abundant specialty tea shops- for gift-giving.

A cup of loose leaf tea. Better to use some kind of filter or leave the leaves in the tea pot, otherwise you have to constantly spit them out when you drink.

A cup of loose leaf tea. Better to use some kind of filter or leave the leaves in the tea pot, otherwise you have to constantly spit the leaves out when you drink.

One student gave me a bag of leaves (not from a tea plant) from her father’s garden that would sweeten a mug, so I added one of these leaves in with a few chrysanthemum blossoms for my morning beverage and started telling people “chrysanthemum” as my default “favorite tea” answer, which confused most of them because they had never heard the English word for, nor could they pronounce, chrysanthemum. This social defense worked for me until a Chinese English professor and tea connoisseur informed me that chrysanthemum is not actually a tea. I was thwarted. To move past this challenge, I would tell all future tea interrogators, “Um, green” and let that sink in with them as I thought to myself: Just give me some hot water. I don’t know anything about tea. Then my host, if I were a house guest, might counter with, “There is only red or black to drink.” Foiled again. Let it not be said that the Chinese are unschooled in the art of verbal ju-jitsu.

There were other categories of questions I struggled to politely dismiss. As the sole, exclusive American in the city, I was looked to as an expert or reservoir of knowledge on my home country. Students interested in graduate school abroad would ask me which schools had the best programs for music education, economics, language learning, or whatever it was they wanted to study. I had to think up ways to softly say, “I have no idea.” More than a few times someone asked me what the name of an American movie was by giving me the Chinese name and an unhelpful description of one detail they remembered about it. Conversely, many times I frustrated the Chinese and my interlocutor would grunt and complain, “Why don’t you know the Chinese name?”

I was expected to be familiar with any American city or state mentioned, which was fine because most Chinese only knew the major cities and tourist sites. The struggle came when they asked me about a specific university. The Ivy League schools are incredibly famous and revered in Chinese schools, and besides these, many students had looked into schools I had never heard of. They asked me how to get into Harvard or wherever it was they had their hopes set on, as if I had any idea or access.

More times than I cared to, I had to answer questions about my favorite NBA team or player, or what NBA team played in my hometown. I had no interest in basketball, which was a shock to them, so I flatly told them I never watched the NBA. Their reply: “But you’re so tall!” It would be like a child meeting an elf from the North Pole, getting a chance to excitedly ask it questions about Christmas, and hearing from the elf that it didn’t work for Santa and its family didn’t even celebrate Christmas. The NBA was the greatest thing in the world to them, and I came from the land of basketball, yet I didn’t share their love. “How could this be?” I’m sure they were thinking, if they ever thought in English. I explained to my Chinese friends that I did love to play basketball as a boy, ironically the only time in my life when I was not above average height.

The long defunct Waterloo Hawks, an NBA team from the city neighboring my hometown.

The long defunct Waterloo Hawks, an NBA team from the city neighboring my hometown.

At the middle school where I taught, the boys loved asking me about computer games. Note that what were called “TV Games” (Nintendo, Playstation, and X-Box) were considered too expensive in China, and almost no one owned them or played them. The students loved playing online games which were either cheap, free, or pirated. Their questions about computer games became so expected that I tried leading them on a few times. “Yes, I love CrossFire. Do you play CrossFire?” Before I told them I wasn’t serious, they were thrilled.

The most popular game among my male students, "CrossFire."

The most popular game among my male students, “CrossFire.”

One line of questioning I found humorous and also embarrassing was when a student would introduce himself and say, “I am from such and such a town. It is famous for pears. Do you know it?” Of course I never knew it, and the idea that foreigners would know of a Chinese town famous for pears made me smile on the inside. Related to this, the question would come up in conversations if I knew of some famous historical figure or Chinese emperor, and I had to plead ignorance. I imagined it must have felt like meeting someone who had never heard the name Thomas Jefferson or only faintly recognized George Washington. In a land where I had to struggle to explain to people who Elvis and the The Beatles were, I was often reminded that my own cultural knowledge or ignorance could be equally strange.

Handsome in China

320225_839216721183_1987679611_nFirst day of class at the local middle school, walking up the stairwell past hundreds of young Chinese pupils, and a young voice bellows out at its breaking point: “HANDSOME! YOU ARE HANDSOME!” I swiveled my head to search the stairwell for the red-faced boy who had screamed it out. SCUH-REAMED screamed. He yelled like only a middle school boy could. Of the surprising amount of admiration I was already adding up, his unrestrained shouting stood out.

Almost anyone who goes to Asia to teach English is guaranteed to hear, over and over, by one and all, how good-looking they are. In fact, if an American teacher didn’t hear a generous amount of personal compliments, I would be worried that they had a tumorous growth on their face or a horrendous skin disease. Then again- no joke- while overseas I did meet an American guy with some skin condition that turned him grayish-purple. Other than that he looked healthy, and he had a young Korean wife and a baby, so maybe there are no disqualifications. Readers, take note: if you spend enough time with the locals in China and they don’t tell you how handsome or beautiful you are, demand why not.

Even so, while I learned to laugh off these compliments as a general cultural phenomenon, something sweet that needed to be taken with a grain of salt, it still seemed as if people were going out of their way to praise me in particular. I decided to test it. I shared some pictures of my friend Andrew with one of my college classes. Physically fit with a strong, smooth jawline, and clear eyes- I thought if my students didn’t think he was an attractive American specimen then they didn’t know what handsome was. When I displayed some pictures from our vacation together in Thailand, immediately I heard from my students how handsome I looked. Yeah, yeah, as expected, but thank you all the same. As jaded and knowing as I wanted to pretend I was, “handsome” compliments never lost their charm. “But what about Andrew? Do you think he’s handsome?” I asked. “En,” came the muted reply. One girl flat out told me “no.”

Blurry or not, Andrew is a good-looking guy, despite what my students might tell you.

Blurry or not, Andrew is a good-looking guy, despite what my students might tell you.

Stunned, I struggled as how I should interpret their reaction. My English class wasn’t seen as being nearly as important as other university classes, so I could rule out personal flattery to get a better grade out of me. Perhaps they just preferred lighter hair colors and blue eyes? I ran the experiment again, this time with small portrait pictures of every member of my father’s side of the family. My younger brother is a lot blonder than I am, with blue eyes and a pleasing smile, so surely my students would be impressed by him, I thought. I asked what they thought of my brother, then what they thought of my cousin’s strawberry blonde husband. “Don’t you think they’re handsome?” I baited.

“No,” said one of my male students, “Only you are handsome.” I laugh at it now, but he was completely serious.

As with most every American, when I met people in China, it was better than an even chance they would tell me I was handsome. And, as in the example above, even the men said so.

Once, while out chatting with the curious English-speaking students at our university campus along with my fellow foreign English teachers, Grant and Sue, a young man approached me and, sure enough, after asking where I came from, blurted out how handsome he thought I was. Sue and I shared a humorous glance with each other- it was a running joke at that point- and she remarked to me about the gap between Western culture, where the men are not supposed to say such things. Then she told my admirer, “In our countries, we don’t do that. Men aren’t supposed to tell other men they’re handsome! It’s just not done.”

The student looked at her blankly, and plainly stated, “But it’s true!” Sue didn’t know what to say after that.

Even if someone contradicted my alleged handsomeness, he and his like-minded countrymen would have none of it.

When they told me so, I told them thanks, they were very kind. That was what I worked out as my polite response after an awkward phase of smiling and not knowing what to say. I worried that it might make me sound conceited in a culture where it was standard to deflect and deny compliments by saying, “No, not at all.” But as the student above proved, I would not have been successful in negating what they said. For awhile, I thought it might seem more humble to reciprocate the kind words, so I would say, “Thanks! I think you’re handsome, too.” But that just seemed to make the situation tenser, and they might look at me askance and ask why I thought that.

If it was a group of girls giggling about me, I sometimes blushed. To my American sensibilities, it was out of the ordinary, even off-putting, to hear people comment on my appearance, especially when they were pouring on the praise. I was amazed to hear them say they thought I was handsome, or the Chinese word for “cool young man.” My experience and upbringing had not prepared me for this.

At English Corner in the campus park, girls like these to come gawk and get a picture.

At English Corner in the campus park, foreign teachers could expect girls like these to come gawk and get a picture.

Even most adults and the college professors said so when they met me. One English professor told me, while we were waiting in an English office for our student-interview meeting to begin, “Oh, Dustin, you are so handsome. All the girls like you.” He meant it. It took all my power not to burst out laughing. I thanked him awkwardly, yet kindly, for that special compliment.

And every Joe Average from America will hear from his Chinese inspectors how much he resembles Tom Cruise or Tom Hanks or some other Hollywood superstar. On my campus, there were quite a few students who watched the American TV show Prison Break who told me that I looked like the main character, Michael Scofield (played by Wentworth Miller). I cannot vouch for that, but at that same English meeting I mentioned, with student scholarship applicants sitting one at a time before a long table of English language professors, one girl sat down and immediately began by saying how attractive she thought I was and how closely I resembled Michael Scofield. She had to fit that in as part of her self-introduction; didn’t even let anyone ask her any questions first. Then she smiled in nervous embarrassment, as did I.

My celebrity comparison in China: the very handsome American actor, Wentworth Miller.

My celebrity comparison in China: the very handsome American actor, Wentworth Miller.

I don't see the resemblance.

I don’t see the resemblance.

A couple times, when I passed by a group of girls, they called out after me. What a turn of the tables compared to my American life! Usually, when my onlookers wanted to get a kick out of me, they would holler a high-pitched “Hello!” as soon as my back was turned to them, but on a few occasions some giggly students waited until I was past and blurted out, “I think you are handsome!”

After a while, it almost became easy to believe. Really, I knew coming in that people would notice my tall figure in a crowd and many Americans had already seen their stock rise after coming to Asia. I would have been more surprised to not receive praise. For most of my Chinese admirers, I was the only foreigner they had ever met in person. In an area of a couple million people, I was one of only a handful of white faces. (How’s that for a pleasant literary image? A handful of faces.) The only other white people I saw around my town were the Australian couple, Grant and Sue, who lived across from me in my campus apartment building, and on a few rare occasions some foreign English teachers in the nearby mid-sized city.

And even if the Chinese said I was handsome, it was more like I was a curiosity- something to look at. A novelty who was good for a picture, not an interview. Or, if there was interaction through words, it was the same three questions (“Where are you come from?” (sic) “How old are you?” “Do you like Chinese food?”) or English as a stunt. At the middle school, the students liked to shout “Hello!” to me as a game of daring, or for their own entertainment they could call out my Chinese name “Li Da-Sen!” At the university, the students would sometimes do a double-take, and if they were with a group of friends, I could expect a jocular, “Hello!”

Everything I did was conspicuous, so occasionally I would hear from one of my students when and where so-and-so or so-and-so’s friend sighted me on campus or around town. I behaved myself every time I went out for a bowl of beef noodles or for a trip to the market, because I knew that eyes were always on me and I would eventually hear reports about what I did earlier in the week from someone who watched me do it. I even found out from a few girls that my celebrity picture (students would stealthily use their camera phone to take my picture while I lectured in class- some students would even sit in on my class just to watch me and take my picture) had made the rounds on Chinese internet sites and reached their friends in cities many provinces removed from ours.

And where celebrity goes, gossip is sure to follow. Once, a student I met on campus told me, “I heard someone say that Dustin has two kids.” That was the only rumor I ever heard. I can only hope I was spared from other wild fables.

With a baby. Not my baby.

With a baby. Not my baby.

Being called handsome in China taught me an important lesson. I had to travel halfway around the globe to do it, but once I was there, I had changed my world. My status in society and my esteem in other’s eyes were completely different than my place in America. In my home country, I had been ignored and excluded so much that I thought it was a law of the universe. Gravity pulls objects toward objects of greater mass just as surely as women and attention are only attracted to the rich, powerful, and showy, I thought. I never expected to receive compliments on my appearance until that imaginary day when my face was on a magazine cover. I thought I would have to settle for my female relatives’ familial pride whenever I dressed up for holidays.

China taught me otherwise. Who I was changed with where I lived. I was a nobody in America, or next to it, but I was handsome in China. I had an outsider’s place in society, or a lack of place in society, but coming from America, being young, and being perceived as handsome meant my position was one of minor celebrity.

I have to say that I preferred it to no celebrity, or no attention at all. Conversations were much easier to start, and I could talk to anyone with the expectation that they would “give me the time of day.” I no longer had to mumble timidly and lower my gaze around people who did not seem comfortable with me. The first time I walked into a classroom in China, the students erupted into gleeful applause. No exaggeration, that happened multiple times. (Of course, that wore off after they became bored with my class as it was inevitable they would be. All I could do was talk at them- in incomprehensible English!)

Still, I could not shake off my shyness. My meek character had been formed by years of being a silent man of little importance in the Midwest. Even when my Chinese students and friends looked at me expectantly, mouths open in wide smiles- even when I wanted to dazzle them- I struggled to find the words and enthusiasm. I would watch in admiration as Grant and Sue, the Australians, would tell breathless tales about life on the Gold Coast, driving on the beach, hunting for mud crabs, spotting snakes and wild birds around their house, while all of their young onlookers (myself included) were bound to them in smiling silence. I did my best, I raised my voice and tried to make simple jokes, I tried to be like Grant and Sue, but I struggled to build any social momentum with my listeners. (And it was “listeners” mostly, as Chinese students go mute by default and will almost never speak unless called upon by name.) I was Sisyphus struggling up a steep of stone dispositions, always sinking back to the unsure feeling of a failed comedian.

What I faced on a daily basis. Note the girl on the right-hand side who is taking my picture with her phone.

What I faced on a daily basis. Note the girl on the right-hand side who is taking my picture with her phone.

Walking into a room, I would immediately arrest the attention of everyone, but I could not hold it. I was as shy and introverted as the quiet Chinese students as I was trying to model speech to. It was beautiful, and humbling, irony that I was teaching Chinese students the basics of English conversation. I often looked over the text’s rudimentary reminders (e.g. “English speakers often precede personal questions by using a hesitant statement such as ‘I hope you don’t mind, but…’”) and I would think to myself how sensible and helpful the advice was. Wow! I could use that! I needed to be taught basic social skills and conversation, too.

But I was the teacher, so I had to be an example for my students. I had a strong sense of English conversation, if not real comfort and mastery of it; I was at least able to discuss it with my students. I was not a typical American, but I could relate to them how Americans typically behaved. Often, I found myself, a definite non-fan of spectator sports, telling my Chinese charges about American football and American sports culture, among other topics I had detached insight into. I was not interested in American sports personally, but I did find it a fascinating subject to talk about and a convenient topic to teach. I was an atypical American teaching, if not exactly modelling, what Americans were like.

Like a circular knot, I could not tell where my position and personality started and where it met with the representative, handsome American teacher in my students’ imagination. My identity was intertwined with strands of my old self- conditioned by my lowly rank in America- and the new handsome man I was in Chinese society. My heart never truly accepted my celebrity. Though I was grateful to finally feel what it was like to be admired and noticed by the masses. It was flattering and it made it easy to win friends, but it also taught me that popularity is, like most everything, a meaningless pursuit. Even with the affection of a classroom of girls’ eyes, my loneliness remained. I still carried hidden burdens on my heart. My face enjoyed a wonderful reception in China; I could not say the same for my soul.

When I later lived In Korea, I was still handsome, but I was runner-up to my school's Number 1 Most Handsome Teacher, the P.E. teacher. This honor was bestowed by the 5th grade girls.

When I later lived In Korea, I was still handsome, but I was runner-up to my school’s Number 1 Most Handsome Teacher, the P.E. teacher. This honor was bestowed by the 5th grade girls.

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